A while back, I was commissioned to create a GigaPan (wiki) of a machine shop/factory in Coeur d’Alene as a fund raiser for our trip to Kansas City, Missouri. I have attempted these in the past (2 to be exact), and they came out decent, however none have been great. On this one, I was able to use a Canon 70-200 f/2.8L borrowed from my teacher. This, for one thing, allowed the images to be sharper. Also, I had more ambient light this time, because the two past ones were shot in the evening while it was overcast. The factory had many artificial lights available, as well as bright sunlight coming through the garage doors (overexposed in the images).
This project has taken many hours, and each time I do one, I vow to myself that I will never again do it without a machine, but each time I forget how hard to are to edit. With a GigaPan Machine, it calculates the distance to move the tripod each time, so it can easily merge the images together in the computer. However, when doing it manually, I have to do it by eye, and guess how far to move it each time. As a result, there is one spot where there is no image. This was unfortunate as it was in a spot where I couldn’t easily clone in image from other areas.

The other reason it took so long is that once the image is done, Photoshop takes a century to save the image as a tiff — First there is “Generating Full Resolution Composite,” then it has to generate preview, then it has to prepare to save, and lastly it has to “Save Large Document Format.” LDF is a format like PSD, however it doesn’t have a 2GB cap on each file, so you can save enormous images to the file container. In this case, the document was 9.5GB.

After saving the document, the upload took a very long time as the final compressed Tiff file was 1.3 gb. I uploaded the panorama to GigaPan.org using their uploader while I was staying at a hotel, and as a result, it took quite a long time using their insanely fast 120kbps connection.

Anyway, the panorama turned out nice, and I am happy to have it finished as it took so long to complete.

–Scott

This is my first post to this blog, out of High School, without being graded, without any of that.

Yesterday, on my way downtown, as I was leaving my house, I spied, not 1, not 2, but 3 rainbows in the sky (you can only see two in this photo). I happened to have my camera handy, so of course I had to photograph it. I decided that since I had just finished my final on HDR, this would be a good chance to utilize it. I took three bracketed exposures on AEB (auto exposure bracketing) handheld – that was no easy feat.

Read the rest of this entry »

This past week, we were ordered to create a masterpiece movie poster for a hypothetical movie called “The Student.” Although the stated goal was to inspire creativity into our projects, I think Twitchell’s real goal was to get free graphic design for his upcoming blockbuster of the same name.

Read the rest of this entry »

Focus208 – Coeur d’Alene from Scott Sturges on Vimeo.

In an ongoing attempt to photograph the state of Idaho, otherwise known as Focus208, I have taken some photos around downtown Coeur d’Alene, Id.

I chose to photograph the two blocks between Sherman and Front Avenue, and 4th and 6th street. I wanted to show some of the “urban-decay” (as in the alley ways and rundown walls) as well as the new urbanization (such as the new towers) of downtown.

The photos were processed from Camera RAW in Photoshop CS4, where light adjustments were made, and sharpening was applied. Unfortunately, I over-sharpened some of my images, but for the most part they all look pretty decent. They were then processed through my fancy Focus208 Photoshop action, which essentially resizes them, adds a border, adds my name, and saves it as a jpg.

After editing the photos, I made them into a slideshow (above) and added the music, Analog Plan by Thomas Schneider, found on Freeplaymusic.com. The slideshow was compiled in Picasa 3 for Mac from Google in 720p resolution (because 1080p takes too long to upload). I actually liked using the program a lot despite it being slightly glitchy software.

This project took me an insane amount of time for some reason, it seemed that I was overthinking some of the process, as it took me several days to edit the photos. Just prepping the video and making this post took over 4 hours.

There was some inspiration from Digital Photography School, Urban Landscape Photography Tips.

Below are the contact sheets of the photos taken on the assignment.

Center of map

map

map

map

balloonlelss markjer

Lastly, there was an extremely blurry shot of Josh Stevens that I took while shooting this project that Twitchell (linked due to request) liked, so I’ll post it for your viewing…

Throughout this semester, I have photographed the night many times… seemingly too many; and as I was shooting this assignment, I decided that I was going to do something different. While contemplating other options, I simply decided to go with my shots, and write a tutorial on night photography, and post-processing of said shots.

CHAPTER I: Capturing the image

I am going to divide this tutorial into 3 chapters, with individual steps within them. This first chapter is capturing a great image. I will leave the composition and location up to you… but there are some important aspects of the capture that you should keep in mind. The first is the exposure: while photographing the night, one needs to make adjustments to make sure that an adequate amount of light is allowed into the sensor (or film) of your camera.

ISO

While shooting at night, I like to set my camera to ISO 100. There main reason for this, is noise. While shooting at night (or anytime for that matter), the last thing I want in my images is digital noise. The higher of ISO one has, the more the noise one will have in their photo.

APERTURE

While shooting at night, I like to close up my aperture for two reasons, 1: focusing at night is difficult, so with a closed up aperture, I can get close to the correct focus, and still have most of the picture in focus. This is because as the aperture closes up, there will be a deeper depth of field of focus, making more of the image in focus. 2: It creates light stars. What are light stars you ask? Just look at the image to the right. The bright lights at the restaurant Beverly’s have turned into brilliant stars, instead of glowing orbs of light. For my image, I shot at f/13 to achieve this effect. I would go even smaller, but unfortunately I would have to lengthen the exposure of the image, and I really didn’t want to. Think of it this way… go out at night and look at a rather bright light, and squint your eyes… the light should have a similar effect as to these light stars in this image.

In short, to get light stars in your images, close your aperture to as small as you can go.

SHUTTER SPEED

As a result of closing the aperture and turning down the ISO sensitivity, I needed to compensate the exposure with a looooong shutter speed. And as with any long exposure, one needs to stabilize their camera some how. My stabilization of choice happens to be a tripod… but if you do not have one for your use, you can rest your camera on a stable object. You will get very blurry images if you try to hold your camera no matter how stable you think your arms are.

For my image, I used a 63 second exposure to compensate for the lost light from the f/13 aperture and the 100 ISO.

While shooting, you will have to play around with your exposure until it is just how you like it. It really varies on how much light is available for you to work with.

One last thing on exposure… if you reach a point where you need to have an exposure longer than 30 seconds (the limit for many cameras), you will have to put your camera in BULB mode and either hold the shutter button and time yourself (I use my iPod’s timer), or get a locking remote (some even have timers built in).

CHAPTER II: Post-Processing

The second half of taking night shots, is the post-processing. In this section, I will describe the steps that I took to make the image look like it does above.

RAW

When ever I shoot photos, my camera is always in the RAW setting. This enables me to make adjustments that the camera would normally make. Think of it as dark-room adjustments when developing film. If you click on the second image, you can see the adjustments made. Below is the image right after converting from the RAW image.

TOPAZ ADJUST

To the left, you see, there are still some adjustments to be made to make the image look like my final product. You will notice there are 4 gnarly lens flares, the top part of the tower is too dark in relation to the lights, and the sky doesn’t look as cool. So I’m going to do some magic.

First, I used a Photoshop plugin called Topaz Adjust. This plugin essentially enhances details throughout the image. I chose a few settings, including some de-noise, and enhanced the light and color. Once I was done, the result below was displayed.

Although the adjustments did make the image look very cool, I felt as if it was taken too far, and looked too fake. So I brought in the original image and created a layer mask and brushed back some of the first image to take away some of the fakey-ness (new word).

The red areas are where the Topaz is being applied, whereas the blue/purple areas are the original image. I feel that this gives the photo a much more natural look.

LENS FLARE

The next step was to remove the 4 flares from the light. I first went about removing the flare on the far left. This one was the easiest as the sky is pretty much a blurry pattern. So I just used the spot healing brush and Photoshop took care of the rest.

The next one was the far-right flare. This one was slightly more difficult, but still rather simple: I took a rectangular cut of the building just above the flare and pasted it below. Then I faded the edges by masking the layer to make it look natural.

The inner lens flares were taken on by a slightly different approach. For these, I created a Hue/Saturation Adjustment layer. From there, I set it to the Yellow mode.

After setting those settings, I created a mask so that the layer would only affect the two inner flares. After making those adjustments, I was finished with the editing of the image.

CHAPTER III: Saving for the Web

After editing, saving for the web it the next step. For me, I simply resize the image, apply a border, add my watermark to the bottom, and save it.

Resize

Generally, I don’t ever save an image wider 1500 if it is landscape, or 700 wide if it is portrait – simply to save bandwidth. I use the image size tool (cmd+option+i) and type in my values.

Border

The border that I usually use for my images consists of a black border with a white stripe through it. This is quite simple to make. First, I make sure that my image is flattened, then I enlarge the canvas (cmd+option+c), and I choose the relative check box. Then I make it 6 pixels wider and 6 pixels taller.

After completing that step, I repeat it twice, once with a white stripe of 4 wider and 4 taller, then again with a black stripe of 12 wider and 12 taller. Once I’m finished with this, the border is done. I have created an action of this to speed things up.

Watermark/Name

I always add my name to the bottom of my images so that if someone swipes them, it will have my name on it. I feel it is probably unlikely that my work is stolen – considering that I’m not really the most famous photographer… but it is still a good habit to get into.

First, I create a text layer with my name. I usually use the font Impact set to white. I choose the font size based on what looks best. Once I’m done, I set the layer style to add a stroke of 1 px black (or 2px) and add a drop shadow. These are simply to add to the æsthetic properties of the image.

SAVING

Lastly, I save the image. This really is the easiest step of the process. Simply, I open the save-as dialog, choose jpeg, name it, and choose a jpeg quality (usually 8 for the web).

I hope that this tutorial has given ideas for those wanting to try out some night photography. None of the steps discussed in this tutorial are necessarily required to do night photography, they are simply the steps I used to create this specific image.